Hot tip: If you're having a hard time nailing the perfect styling routine for your curls or coils, Jasmine "Jazzee” Santiago, a New York City-based hairstylist and texture expert, says it miiight be time to try—or, hey, revisit—the LOC method. As a refresher, the LOC method (which stands for leave-in, oil, and cream) is all about layering on the perfect combo of products to infuse your hair with extra moisture and definition.

And if it sounds easy, that's because it really is. All you'll need is the right products, a little patience, and a few of Santiago's expert-approved tricks to get the job done right. So whether it's your first time trying the LOC method or you're a seasoned pro looking for a few product recs, keep reading for everything you've ever wanted to know, below.

What is the LOC method?

The LOC method is a styling technique that's all about layering your products in a specific order to get hydrated, super-defined curls and coils. It's a pretty straightforward acronym: "L" for leave-in, "O" for oil, and "C" for cream—and that's the exact order you'll want to apply your products. "This method is designed to help your hair retain moisture so it doesn't dry out as much," says Santiago, "so it's really great for people who are looking to add some extra TLC to their haircare routine."

Who is the LOC method good for?

Santiago says that any curly and coily hair textures can benefit from the LOC method, but it's especially great for those with high-porosity hair. Porosity, btw, is your hair's ability to absorb and maintain moisture, and it's one of the biggest factors in determining how your hair will respond to a certain product or styling method. Basically, it's hella important. This porosity quiz is v helpful if you aren't sure of your type, but here's the gist regardless:

• High-porosity hair immediately soaks up moisture (almost like a sponge), but it also loses that moisture super fast. That means you'll want to look for styling routines that seal in moisture (like the LOC method!) with thicker, richer products. "The LOC method helps fill in the gaps in high-porosity hair," says Santiago. "It basically puts a little barrier around the hair cuticle so it can hold onto that hydration longer without drying out."
• Low-porosity hair repels water, meaning both products and moisture tend to sit on the surface of your hair and never fully absorb, putting it at risk for major buildup and dryness. The solution? Layering your products a bit more strategically, says Santiago, who suggests trying the modified LCO method instead—i.e., you'll layer on a leave-in, followed by a lightweight curl cream, and then lock it all in with a lighter oil (like grapeseed or jojoba oil) to maximize moisture without the build up.

How do you do the LOC method?

The general rule of thumb when it comes to trying the LOC method is following the correct order (again, that's leave-in followed by oil and cream). But when it comes to product amounts and application techniques, Santiago says that there's no set rules—the easiest way to figure out the best lineup for your hair is to play around.

One thing she suggests when layering products for the first time? Before you apply anything on your hair, swatch your products on the back of your hand and mix them together with your fingertips—does it look like the formulas are layering nicely together, or are they curdling and balling up? This'll give you a good idea of whether or not your products will play nicely together in your hair. So with all of that in mind, here's what to keep in mind for each step:

Step 1: Leave-in

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First things first: Santiago says it's important to kick off your LOC routine with a clean and hydrated base. "Retaining and adding moisture to your hair starts in the shower, so use a cream-based cleanser to cleanse your scalp and hair, and then go in with a thick, deeply moisturizing conditioner to help soften and detangle," she says. "People try to go straight to the products, but you really need to first set up your hair with a good foundation."

Once your hair is cleansed, conditioned, and soaking wet, Santiago says you can then apply your leave-in conditioner. Look out for cream, milk, or water-based formulas (like the picks below) that'll add even more moisture to your hair. Santiago suggests applying your leave-in with the "praying hands" technique: Just section off your hair, rub a dollop of leave-in between your palms, and then clap your hands around each section, gently gliding the product from root to tip.

Tgin Rose Water Leave-In Conditioner

SheaMoisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Shine Conditioner

Now 15% Off

Briogeo Rosarco Milk Reparative Leave-In Conditioning Spray

Melanin Haircare Multi-Use Softening Leave In Conditioner

Step 2: Oil

Next comes the oil. "Keep in mind that oils will never, ever moisturize your hair—their job is to seal in all that moisture you've already given your hair," says Santiago. "That's why, again, it's so important to work with soaking wet hair that's already been treated with a wash-out conditioner and a leave-in conditioner."

There isn't really a single oil or product that's best here—it all depends on personal preference. For those with high-porosity hair, Santiago typically recommends heavier oils (like castor or olive) and applying them with the praying hands technique to really push the product into your hair shaft. Pro tip: Make sure you go easy on your scalp—overloading your scalp with thick oils and creams can clog your pores and/or cause buildup, says Santiago, so keep it light.

Kreyòl Essence Travel Size Haitian Black Castor Oil

Pattern Jojoba Oil Hair Serum

Mizani 25 Miracle Nourishing Oil

Tropical Holistic Extra Virgin Organic Olive Oil

Step 3: Cream

Time to tie it all together with your cream-based product. "Think of the 'C' as your styling products," says Santiago. "If you're doing a wash-and-go, you'll probably want to use a creamy pudding or styling gel cream—if you're doing a twist-out or a protective style, try a butter or a heavy cream." Not sure where to start? The four options below are all excellent picks for hydrated, ultra-defined hair. P.S. Santiago suggests raking your cream through your hair, but you can also use praying hands here if that's more your speed. Again: Don't be afraid to customize your routine.

Design Essentials Natural Almond & Avocado Curling Crème

Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Creme

Adwoa Beauty Baomint Moisturizing Curl Defining Cream

Mizani True Textures Curl Define Pudding

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How often should you do the LOC method?

Santiago says this'll depend on how often you wash your hair. Remember: You want to try the LOC method on freshly cleansed and conditioned hair. "If you're someone who wears twist-outs or protective styles, try to do the LOC method every time you wash your hair—ideally once a week or once every week and a half—to add back tons of moisture" she says.

The final word

If you're looking for a way to hydrate and style your high-porosity hair, you should definitely consider trying the LOC method. "When starting any type of new haircare routine, play around with the measurements and the products until you find what works best for your hair," says Santiago. "Because at the end of the day, your hair is always going to tell you what it needs. There's no one size fits all when it comes to curly hair."

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Ruby was the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covered beauty across print and digital. Her work has appeared on The Zoe Report, Fashionista, and StyleCaster. Follow her on Instagram. 

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