Even as a beauty editor, I find the amount of ingredients being used in skincare products these days majorly overwhelming. Peptides, growth factors, stem cells, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, kojic acid...the list goes on and on and on. And while all of the different options are great, it can make things v confusing when curating a skincare routine or shopping for new products. Like what ingredients actually work? I asked that very question to a few of my favorite dermatologists—Dendy Engelman, MD; Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD; and Shari Marchbein, MD—and they all gave me the same response: retinol and vitamin C are hands down the best and most well-studied ingredients for reversing signs of aging and giving your skin a dewy glow.

Not only that, but these MVP ingredients are even more effective at improving your skin texture and tone when used together. Which is exactly why I compiled this handy guide for combining retinol and vitamin C. Ahead, everything you need to know about using this derm-favorite duo, plus the best retinol and vitamin C products to try right now.

What is retinol and how does it work?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that's often used in skincare products to stimulate collagen production (the protein responsible for skin smoothness and firmness) and trigger cell turnover (your skin’s natural renewal process). “By signaling cells to behave like younger cells, retinol can smooth fine lines and wrinkles, fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and improve skin’s tone and texture,” explains Dr. Engelman.

Retinol is also a fantastic ingredient for treating acne, since it "works on a cellular level to help kickstart your cell turnover rate, reduce inflammation, and decrease oil production—all key functions for keeping pores clear and skin free of breakouts," Dr. Marchbein has previously told Cosmo.

What to look for in a retinol:

Retinol is available in various potencies either over-the-counter or via a prescription (fyi, prescription-strength retinol is more effective at treating acne than the drugstore or over-the-counter kind) and is typically offered in the form of a face serum, gel, or night cream.

If you got the over-the-counter retinol route, choose a formula that's labeled "encapsulated." That means the retinol will be slowly released into the skin to mitigate any irritation and keep the ingredient more stable. You'll also want to pay attention to the percentage of retinol in your serum or cream as well. As a general rule, it's best to start out with a low percentage, like 0.25, and then gradually work your way up to a higher concentration, like 0.5 or 1.0, as your skin tolerates it.

4 editor-approved retinols:

This Retinol for Acne

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment

Now 18% Off

This Extra-Strength Retinol

SkinMedica Retinol 1.0 Complex

This Inexpensive Retinol

The INKEY List 1% Slow Release Retinol Serum

This Gentle Retinol

Mary Kay Clinical Solutions Retinol 0.5

What can retinol not be used with?

While we're on the topic of retinol, it's important to know that the ingredient is strong and can cause skin to peel, flake, or become sensitive—especially during the first few weeks of use or if you combine it with other harsh actives, like AHAS and BHAs. That means that retinol cannot be used at the same time as your leave-on products with glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid.

What is vitamin C and how does it work?

Vitamin C is powerful antioxidant that can help prevent signs of aging and repair skin damage when used topically. In terms of prevention, vitamin C is excellent at protecting the skin from free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors, such as pollution, infrared light, and blue light, says Dr. Mraz Robinson.

“On the reparative side, vitamin C also supports collagen synthesis and helps regulate melanin production to fade hyperpigmentation and give skin nice overall vibrancy and glow,” says Dr. Mraz Robinson, adding that research has also shown that vitamin C, which is often found in the form of a serum, can boost the protective benefits of SPF when used together.

What to look for in a vitamin C serum:

Not all vitamin C serums are created equal. According to Dr. Marchbein, the most effective formulas contains one of the seven commonly used forms of vitamin C below:

• L-Ascorbic Acid: The most powerful and well-studied form of vitamin C. While very effective, it may be too strong for those with sensitive skin. Plus, it’s unstable so if it’s not properly packaged it can become inactive.
• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD): A form of vitamin C that’s as potent as L-ascorbic acid, but much more very stable and less irritating to the skin.
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate/Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Two stable, hydrating forms of vitamin C that pair well with niacinamide.
• Sodium Ascorbate/Calcium Ascorbate: Often referred to as vitamin C esters, these are two more stable and non-irritating forms of vitamin C:
• Ascorbyl Palmitate: One of the least powerful forms of vitamin C, but it’s the most stable (aka least likely to break down when exposed to light or air) and a great choice for sensitive skin.

Also important to note? The percentage of vitamin C used in the formula. In general, vitamin C serums with 10 to 30 percent of the ingredient are more likely to be effective on dark spots and hyperpigmentation, while anything under 10 percent functions as a powerful antioxidant and will protect skin from free radical damage.

And lastly, you'll want to consider the packaging. Depending on the formulation, vitamin C can oxidize (or become less effective) when exposed to light and air. To ensure your vitamin C serum stays fresh and effective, choose a formula that's housed in opaque, airtight packaging when possible.

4 excellent vitamin C serum to try:

This Award-Winning Vitamin C Serum

BeautyStat Universal C Skin Refiner

This Drugstore Vitamin C Serum

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum

Now 39% Off

This Firming and Brightening Vitamin C Serum

Matter of Fact Brightening + Firming Serum

This Cult-Favorite Vitamin C Serum

Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum

Now 33% Off

Can I use retinol and vitamin C together?

Both Dr. Engelman and Dr. Mraz Robinson say yes, retinol and vitamin C should both absolutely be a part of your skincare routine. Having retinol and vitamin C in your skincare regimen is a great idea since both are powerful anti-agers that address skin appearance as well as skin health.

“These ingredients are a dream team for tackling dullness, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne and acne scarring, and overall skin aging,” says Dr. Mraz Robinson, noting that vitamin C and retinol are the two ingredients she recommends most to her patients. “From a health perspective, vitamin C neutralizes free radicals and stressors on the skin, while retinol helps the skin to shed unhealthy and potentially pre-cancerous skin cells, so they’re very complementary.”

What are the risks of using retinol and vitamin C together?

Vitamin C and retinol are both very powerful ingredients, which is in many ways what makes them so worthwhile, but it also means that you need to use them with caution. “Using these ingredients together is great for getting the protective and anti-aging results that you want, says Dr. Engelman, "but the downside is that they can irritate the skin."

And that's especially true if you have sensitive skin: "Using both retinol and vitamin C can cause redness, itchiness, sensitivity and other unwanted side effects,” says Dr. Engelman. That said, you can avoid or lessen irritation by spacing out the time between applying these two ingredients, or by using your vitamin C in the morning and your retinol at night.

Can I use retinol at night and vitamin C in the morning?

In general, yes, retinol is best used at night and vitamin C is best used in the morning. In the morning, apply your vitamin C serum to clean, dry skin and follow with a face moisturizer for your skin type and sunscreen with SPF 30 or more. If you're using a face moisturizer with vitamin C, then just SPF on top is fine.

“In the evening, you should apply your retinol to clean, dry skin and if your skin tends to be on the drier side, you can layer it with a hyaluronic acid serum or hydrating moisturizer,” says Dr. Mraz Robinson. And since retinol can cause excessive dryness around the eyes and mouth, Dr. Mraz Robinson recommends applying an occlusive ointment, such as Aquaphor or Vaseline, to those areas before using your retinol to create a protective barrier.

And FYI, if you're someone who can't be bothered with an a.m. and p.m. routine and just wants to focus on skincare at night, you *can* use vitamin C and retinol together as long as it's in the same product, like one of the options below.

The best products that combine retinol and vitamin C:

StriVectin Multi-Action Super-C Retinol

Now 33% Off

Paula's Choice Paula's Choice CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment Cream with Peptides, Vitamin C & Licorice Extract, Anti-Aging & Wrinkles, 1 Ounce

Naturium Vitamin C Super Serum Plus

Neutrogena Rapid Tone Repair Retinol + Vitamin C Dark Spot Corrector

Now 25% Off

The bottom line:

Our experts all agree that when it comes to preventing and treating acne and acne scars and reversing signs of aging, like fine lines, uneven skin texture, and discoloration, there are no two better ingredients than retinol and vitamin C. “It's definitely a good idea to use both of these ingredients in your regular skincare routine,” says Dr. Engelman.

Just remember to choose formulas that are right for your skin type and skin concerns and to use your vitamin C in the morning (with SPF, of course) and your retinol in the evening before bed.

Meet the experts:

• Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic in New York, NY. Dr. Engelman is an expert in injectables, lasers, and and chemical peels.
• Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and cofounder of Modern Dermatology in Westport, CT where she and her team offer all types of medical and cosmetic dermatology treatments. Dr. Mraz Robinson is also an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Yale University of Medicine in New Haven.
• Shari Marchbein, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Niche Dermatology in New York, NY, who specializes in cosmetic and medical dermatology. Dr. Marchbein has previously spoken to Cosmo about using retinol to treat acne.

Why trust Cosmopolitan?

Lauren Balsamo is the deputy beauty director at Cosmopolitan with a decade of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from the best sunscreens for sensitive skin to the best lasers for acne scars. She regularly works with the industry’s top dermatologists and aestheticians to assess new skincare treatments, products, and trends.

Gabby Shacknai is a New York City-based journalist with years of experience researching, writing, and editing beauty and wellness stories that range from aesthetic treatments for millennials to sweat-reduction techniques. Gabby is an authority in all skincare categories, but an expert when it comes to vitamin C and retinol. She regularly tests and analyzes vitamin C and retinol products for efficacy, while working with the industry’s top dermatologists and estheticians to assess new formulas, brands, and technologies.

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Gabby Shacknai is a New York-based journalist and editor who produces high-quality content for a wide variety of outlets and brands across various industries.

Lauren Balsamo is deputy beauty director at Cosmopolitan, where she writes, edits, and produces all types of beauty content—from product reviews to personal essays and trend reports. She has covered beauty for nine years at Cosmopolitan and has contributed to Women’s Health and Seventeen magazines as well. Follow her on Instagram. 

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